One part is float bar that goes up and down to show level when you remove the cap, other part is float that give sensor reading because sensor doesn't get in direct contact with the coolant at all. Level inside the reservoir is two part system. I poured some water from the side of the tank and watched it flow right to that very spot. Mine is leaking decently from the seam and corner.Īt first I was nervous that my turbo coolant lines were leaking since I saw significant pooling on the subframe below the turbo. If you see white marks and see coolant, you'll have your answer. Clean the side of the tank and go for a drive. You'll see dried coolant on the side of the tank and turbo intake, and possibly pooled coolant on the frame and subframe. Look around the coolant reservoir and on the frame. I thought the same thing so I did the bleeding procedure and absolutely nothing changed. Wouldn't running the water pumps bleed procedure solve trapped air pockets as well? Or do we have to completely drain it all? Moral of story is you probably have trapped air bubbles and by draining the system you can fix your problem for under $30 After doing this I filled up my coolant tank with 2 gallons of distilled water only to flush out the system just to be careful which got a lot more blue coolant out of the system and once I drained that I installed the 50/50 mix and drove around till my car was hot and then I let the car cool off for a few hours and I opened the bleeder screw and a lot of air came out so I filled the coolant up to the line again where it's supposed to be and now I have no more low coolant light. After getting that mixed I lifted the front of my car on a Jack and removed my front innercooler (extremely easy to do) and then unscrewed the screw on the bottom of the radiator which drained about 70% of the coolant so then I disconnected a hose near the radiator plug (forgot the name of it) which got the other 30% of coolant out. I did a 50/50 mix (one gallon of coolant and one gallon of distilled water in a 5 gallon bucket and then mixed it together. After checking my coolant level it was filled exactly where it was supposed to be but I continuously was having a low coolant message pop up on my car so I thought it was the sensor in the bottom of the coolant tank but after replacing the coolant sensor it still remained so I went ahead and decided to buy factory blue bmw coolant with 3 gallons of distilled water. If coolant level was low, and light was not "ON, " or owners complaint was "light never comes "ON" with low coolant, " replace sensor.My 2011 335i had a low coolant light singe I got it from the dealership. The coolant level sensor shares a common sensor ground (CKT 452) with the EGR, map and coolant temperature sensor, an intermittent at any of these connections could cause the coolant level light to come "ON". If customer complaint was "light never comes "ON", this test will determine if it is ECM or bulb check circuit related. This confirms that the sensor ground CKT 452 is open between the ECM and coolant level sensor.ģ. By jumpering CKT 69 to ground, this will pull the ECM signal low and turn out the coolant light. This test confirms that the ECM is controlling the coolant level light. They should be repaired first because they share common grounds.Ģ. This test will confirm if the coolant light is "ON" because of low coolant, and if Codes 14, 26, or 32 are "ON". TEST DESCRIPTION: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on the diagnostic chart.ġ. When the coolant level is low, the signal at the ECM will be high (4-5 volts) and the ECM will turn "ON" the low coolant light. When the coolant is at the proper level, the coolant level signal at the ECM is pulled low (0-3 volts). It is located at the right hand radiator tank, and senses coolant by means of two probes that protrude into the coolant. The Coolant Level Sensor is a solid state module that monitors coolant level. That is why it goes out when you added coolant. No, all that the sensor does is look at the level in the surge tank.
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